Thursday, March 02, 2006

Winding Alleys and Cobblestone Roundabouts

So, having left Roma, the land of ruins on every corner and blue-lit public loos, we embarked on our journey to Firenzi (Florence). On the train we met a lovely group of Italians. I was sitting next to the PhD student of a group of students (and another teacher) from Sardinia who were on their way to Florence for a science trip (we were invited to join them in going to the mathematics museum, but our decision of whether or not to join them was made easy by the fact that we couldn't find it!). In an effort toward making polite conversation with a bunch of Italian scientists, I told them I was the great, great, great etc relation by marriage of Lord Kelvin. Once this information was disseminated to the group, the professor got very excited and then pulled out the digital camera and took a picture of me and said PhD student to show the rest of the people when they got back (we couldn't figure out if they were from a university or high school, and for some reason didn't ask...) It was interesting meeting them, and upon their inspection of my phrase book, learned that what the book said was the translation for "Does this car come with comprehensive insurance" was actually "Does this car come with a helmet?" Goodness knows what I've been saying to people here! He also looked through the Mystery Moleskine with me. As it turns out, our mystery friend is actually an actor (or director,or something involving the stage), and it appears as though they've been holding auditions for actresses (hence all of the one-offs with women, I suppose). It seems as though they might be good because a lot of the stages he had listed in his book are quite prominent ones. He agrees though, that our mystery friend was a bit disorganized. Also in the book was a list of to-dos, one of which was "tidy the house". How odd!

I've also discovered that witty-humour (bordering on sarcasm) does not seem to be part of Italian culture. Upon explaining to the afore mentioned PhD student (I've since named him Raffealle since we didn't learn his name) that my great, great etc relative was Kelvin, I also made sure to tell them that most of the brains in that family must have fallen out in the ocean since I have no mathematical capabilities. He proceeded to be very confused and ask how the brains could have fallen into the ocean and by the time he figured out I didn't really mean it, it was so not amusing anymore it was embarrassing. Similarly, with our hotel guy here (who we've named Leonardo) on our first night we went out to an organ concert and wanted to make sure the area (which turned out to be 5 mins from the guest house) was safe, and were assured it was. When we came back he asked if we had any problems, to which we replied that we had to beat off a large band of thugs armed with machettes and guns, but fortunately our growls and threats of hockey-style hip checks were enough to scare them off. He appeared to be very concerned (and slightly confused) and said "really? In Florence? That has never happened before". We then realized our mistake and assured him that it was all fine, and apart from being confused and probably thinking we're slightly mad, seemed relieved to know Firenzi is as safe as ever. He told us he was about to leave last night (he arrives around 7 and doesn't seem to leave until around midnight) and when I said "Oh, you don't sleep here?" he again seemed very confused and said "No, I have my own house". I have learned my lesson. Although it probably means that the Italians just say what's on their minds, and have no need for underhanded passive agressive and otherwise approaches to communication, which really is probably a good thing!

Another lesson I've learned is that unlike in Canada (and much of the UK too) cobblestones is not synomomous with "pedestrianised area" I discovered that from the middle of a roundabout by the station yesterday as cars and mopeds whizzed past us. We were happily chatting away and followed some guy into it. I don't know what his excuse was!

Let's see, we met (what we thought was probably) a future USA Senator Candidate (why else would he, after having just finished dinner with his perfect looking family would he get up and say to us in the most middle-American accent ever "Ya'll having lots of fun with this, or what?"and his perfect wife then proceeded to ask if we were there on school break (sha!) while their spoiled children whined about having to walk back to the hotel and wanted to take a taxi. We had a pleasant little chat with them, and off he went, happy to have practiced his "random chat with the constituents" skills. We also met a guy who works on news for the CBC. I saw the CBC symbol on his coat and pretty much hollered "CBC!!!!!" at him just outside the Uffizi Gallery this morning. He had been in Torino working on the games, and he gave us his last two CBC Torino pins. We were very impressed!

I have also been impressed with myself for bargaining with a street accoster (vendor who jumps out at you at every street corner) in negotiating a 5 Euro umbrella down to 3 Euros) and for small talking with lots of strangers. It's a skill I want to develop, and what better time to practice?

Yesterday we went on a tour of a winery in the hills of Tuscany. It was awesome...I learned a lot about the production of olive oil too (they make olive oil as well). It's a long story, but let me tell you: never buy anything but extra virgin olive oil (I know I won't!) I've brought back three bottles of Chiati (made with 100% San Gervese grapes) and I'm keen to tour other wine regions now too!

Today was Gallery day (the Uffizi and Academia - hence the long update to rest tired feet!). Seeing the David was truly remarkable. I had completely underestimated it, but it really does take your breath away in real life!

Florence is a lovely city, but the most unnavigatable in the world. It's made up of only winding streets and alleys and we seem to take a new route home each time. It's lovely though (even if people here drive like maniacs!) Some random facts: Florence has 400 000 people, and 300 000 scooters (mopeds), and they jet around like you wouldn't believe!

I think that's it for now. It's back to Roma tomorrow...

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